Food

Fatty Cue’s Pork Spare Ribs

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Three pork ribs for a party of four?! Lamentations and gnashing of teeth ensued. Still, the ribs are so richly flavored and fat-streaked that a fraction of a rib was almost enough for each eater.

After a long wait, Brooklyn’s Fatty Cue has finally opened. The collaboration between Fatty Crab’s Zak Pelaccio and former Hill Country pitmaster Robbie Richter serves an American-Southeast Asian barbecue hybrid–fatty, smoked meat like brisket and ribs, plus acidic, funky, sweet flavors like belacan, fish sauce, chiles, coconut. Most of it is very delicious. But some of the dishes, like a modest bowl of clams for $17, suffer from a small-portion-big-price problem–you might encounter the same issue at Fatty Crab.

(And there’s no point in leaving room for dessert as the pie is terrible. Terrible!)

These pork spare ribs ($14) were one of our favorite creations, the well-smoked, tender ribs lacquered with a pungent glaze made from smoked fish and palm syrup, with a prickle of heat from Indonesian long pepper. We wished we each had our own bone to gnaw on, but perhaps it’s just as well.

91 South 6th Street, Brooklyn
718-599-3090