This wiggly, jiggy gelatin loaf was made at Marlow and Daughters by slowly simmering pigs’ heads and then pressing together the resulting meat, cartilage, and fat. But, like a Cracker Jack box, there’s a surprise inside.
Unlike most headcheese, this one has pickled carrot and daikon embedded in it–add a baguette, mayo, and some ham, and it’s an instant banh mi. The tart vegetables cut the richness of all that fatty meat, which is why terrines are often served with pickles. This version just skips the step. ($4 for an inch-thick slab.)
For a more classically French preparation, try the country paté, a dense, coarse pork slab that tastes faintly of liver with black pepper, garlic, and allspice. It holds together neatly, and would make ideal picnic food with a glass of wine and some nice mustard. ($5 for an inch-thick slab)
95 Broadway, Brooklyn