Caputo’s Bakery on Court Street is a 106-year-old hold-out from the time when Carroll Gardens was mainly an Italian neighborhood. James Caputo bakes the lard bread daily in the back room, the same way his great-great-great grandfather did when he opened the bakery. The loaves beckon from behind the counter like fat sirens.
The bread has a tender, fine crumb, almost like brioche. But instead of butter and eggs, this gets its richness and flaky delicacy from pork fat. Tear it apart to reveal an interior studded with batons of salami, a bit of cheese, and loads of black pepper.
Because of the high fat content, Caputo’s lard bread keeps and freezes well. It’s even made it all the way to Iraq to feed hungry Brooklyn soldiers.
329 Court Street, Brooklyn
Advertising disclosure: We may receive compensation for some of the links in our stories. Thank you for supporting the Village Voice and our advertisers.