Sure, Twinkies’ vanilla batter and creamy filling have successfully plugged many a sweet tooth (and gaps in self-esteem) throughout their 80 years on the market. Yeah, they’ve made deep-fried cameos at county fairs and upscale chip shops, but their bland stickiness has always lent them a laughable popularity — they’re cult like some ’90s pop songs, loved because they’re so over-the-top mediocre.
But at Park Slope’s Trois Pommes Patisserie, the snack cake is hardly the homogeneous, Hostess “favorite”: The bakery has recently added a home-made, almond-batter Twinkie to the permanent menu. Granted, this pastry has physical similarities to its mass-produced analog. It’s a small, tubular cake with a buttery, fluffy interior. With one bite, though, it becomes clear that Trois Pommes’ offering far outshines the pre-packaged Twinkie.
The exterior of this version is golden brown and baked just enough to give a generally soft pastry texture and form. The batter itself tastes strongly of almonds, but is not overbearing — a deep and sweet nuttiness, but not as if a bottle of extract had been poured into the mix. To some extent, Trois Pommes’ concoction has the feel of a good homemade pound cake — a bit crumbly, but extremely moist. The filling is mild, milky, and rich: It goes well with the almond vibe but isn’t such a strong flavor that it competes with it.
Also, the interior behaves the way the inside of a cake should. Unlike the Hostess original, it mingles with its doughy home — batter and butter cream are paired, not thrown-together separates. That’s to say, you can chomp into it, and the filling won’t squirt out of one end. You can even tear the treat apart with your hands and take little bites and you’re still eating Twinkie the whole time, not just mouthfuls of either filling or cake.
Should you decide to check out the $2.50 dessert, be aware that it’s super rich. One way around that: Pair with an unsweetened espresso. The dark, bitter coffee lightens the item’s buttery, sugary character really nicely.
If you’re looking to stuff your stomach post-breakup or are on a drunken convenience-store junk binge, Trois Pommes’ Twinkie isn’t for you. But if you’re looking for a damned good spin on an over-processed childhood classic, it’s well worth hitting up the Brooklyn patisserie.
Trois Pommes Patisserie
260 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn