Sam Sifton awards Fatty ‘Cue a star. Despite it being “dark and shouty inside… the food is incredibly good.”
Sifton also files on Betel, where “the food is meant to thrill without scaring. It is Thai food for farang, more sweet than fire, inoffensive to the Western palate, kind of boring.”
Ryan Sutton is less impressed than his fellow critics by ABC Kitchen, which he deems, “occasionally awful, sometimes outstanding and always environmentally friendly.”
Tables for Two is more optimistic about ABC Kitchen: “If you seek the staff’s advice, and heed it, you’re likely to enjoy a very good meal; the service is even more consistent than the food.”
Adam Platt isn’t so taken with Pulino’s, allowing that, “in fairness to (Nate) Appleman, he’s not in Kansas anymore. Serving carefully wrought escarole salads to sun-splashed foodies in San Francisco is not the same as feeding a roiling piranha tank of New York scenesters pretty much around the clock.”
Jay Cheshes manages to score a table at Kenmare, which “serves food that’s worth some hoop-jumping… simple, Italian-accented fare comes reasonably priced and generously portioned, the last things you’d expect from a buzzy space with sultry lighting, pink stucco walls and the same eclectic mix… who once prowled (Paul) Sevigny’s Beatrice Inn.
Alan Richman is not as enthusiastic: “Except for the food and the two bland, unbalanced cocktails I tried, Kenmare is interesting.”