Never one to take a bad review lying down, Pulino owner Keith McNally has sent an open letter to New York critic Adam Platt after this week’s review of the restaurant. (Platt noted that the crust tastes like matzo, which was exactly what we thought.)
Here’s an excerpt of the letter:
In describing the crowd at Pulino’s you employ the usual cliches (“indie-movie moguls” “neighborhood tattoo artists”), but where did you drum up the word “scenesters” ?? I haven’t heard this word since Dylan went electric. The fact is, you’re as out of touch describing young downtown New Yorkers as you are at understanding the restaurants where they like to eat. For in your middle-aged world it’s axiomatic that busy, exuberant restaurants cannot and will not serve great food. This, unfortunately, is no less a form of prejudice than restaurateurs believing that bald, over-weight reviewers are incapable of reviewing lively downtown restaurants impartially.
Everyone’s entitled to their opinion. But it’s a little bit odd for one middle-aged man to call out another for being, well, middle-aged.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on May 14, 2010