Food

Fornino Park Slope: New Grilled Pizzas

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The new Park Slope location of Fornino has been open for little more than a week, but already it has attracted attention, not the least because its owner and chef Micheal Ayoub’s return to the neighborhood. He opened Cucina in this same space on Fifth Avenue twenty years ago. It was one of the first upscale restaurants on that stretch, and is remembered fondly by many in the neighborhood. (Though it was also a harbinger of gentrification.)

Unlike the branch of Fornino in Wiliamsburg (187 Bedford Avenue), which serves pizzas from a wood-burning oven, the new Park Slope spot offers grilled pizzas. In these early days, the crust is very thin and crisp, slightly reminiscent of the crust at Pulino’s, although Fornino’s is far better: less tough and brittle.

The Sicilian ($12), above, is topped with a slew of eggplant, olives, anchovies, and onion. The lack of cheese on this pizza lets the tomato sauce star, savory and tart. Better, though, is the clam pie ($14), which benefits from a garlic-parsley punch, and the slick of the buttery-saline bivalve juices.