This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema braves the scene at Kenmare, where “the ingredients were unimpeachable, the facile preparation of entrées was a deadly sin.” Sarah DiGregorio samples everything plus the pizza at Pulino’s, deeming the toppings “undeniably tasty, especially the dryish, concentrated tomato sauce. The eccentric crust, though … is completely flat and crisp, lacking any airhole structure, any gluten chew, any yeasty sweetness.”
Jay Cheshes is also disappointed by Pulino’s, where “wildly inconsistent individual pizzas are much thinner and crispier than the new Neapolitan stars at Motorino and Kesté. At their worst, they’re as brittle as crackers with meat, cheese and sauce sparsely sprinkled on top.”
Sam Sifton files on “the new, chef-less iteration of Mia Dona: exactly the sort of decent, middlebrow, red-sauce Italian restaurant you’d relish if you found it in a town near the town where you grew up in the suburbs of New York. Within the five boroughs of New York City, we call that sort of restaurant satisfactory.”
Underground Gourmet approves of The Smile, where chef Melia Marden “cooks like an especially talented dinner-party hostess, re-creating taste memories of places she’s been and dishes she’s loved, and that’s meant as a compliment.”
Gael Greene gets the really early word on The Lion, where “it won’t be easy to score a spot at a time you like to eat. Locals who have no problem at all getting into Waverly Inn seem cheered by the food as they divvy up their loyalties.”
Alan Richman is taken with Northern Spy Food Co., in what he refers to as “the Tompkins Square Park area of the East Village. … Now the park is cleaned up — it’s practically pristine — and a better class of restaurants is moving in.” (Newsflash!)
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