Robert Sietsema at Kenmare; Sarah DiGregorio at Pulino’s


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema braves the scene at Kenmare, where “the ingredients were unimpeachable, the facile preparation of entrées was a deadly sin.” Sarah DiGregorio samples everything plus the pizza at Pulino’s, deeming the toppings “undeniably tasty, especially the dryish, concentrated tomato sauce. The eccentric crust, though … is completely flat and crisp, lacking any airhole structure, any gluten chew, any yeasty sweetness.”

Steve Cuozzo is even less impressed, calling Pulino’s “another artsy-pizza parlor with some trattoria dishes grafted on — not bad at all, but hardly worth wasting a review on.”
[NY Post]

Jay Cheshes is also disappointed by Pulino’s, where “wildly inconsistent individual pizzas are much thinner and crispier than the new Neapolitan stars at Motorino and Kesté. At their worst, they’re as brittle as crackers with meat, cheese and sauce sparsely sprinkled on top.”

Sam Sifton files on “the new, chef-less iteration of Mia Dona: exactly the sort of decent, middlebrow, red-sauce Italian restaurant you’d relish if you found it in a town near the town where you grew up in the suburbs of New York. Within the five boroughs of New York City, we call that sort of restaurant satisfactory.”
[NY Times]

Ryan Sutton makes sure, at Fatty ‘Cue, to “give thanks to the cocktail experts, whose sour, spicy libations help quell fat-based nausea.”

Underground Gourmet approves of The Smile, where chef Melia Marden “cooks like an especially talented dinner-party hostess, re-creating taste memories of places she’s been and dishes she’s loved, and that’s meant as a compliment.”
[NY Magazine]

Gael Greene gets the really early word on The Lion, where “it won’t be easy to score a spot at a time you like to eat. Locals who have no problem at all getting into Waverly Inn seem cheered by the food as they divvy up their loyalties.”

Alan Richman is taken with Northern Spy Food Co., in what he refers to as “the Tompkins Square Park area of the East Village. … Now the park is cleaned up — it’s practically pristine — and a better class of restaurants is moving in.” (Newsflash!)

Tables for Two enjoys the scene at Mari Vanna, “a place fit for a firebird or a frog princess, and fantastic even from the sidewalk.”
[New Yorker]