When Grown Men Call Each Other Names: Steve Cuozzo v. Keith McNally


Sarah may have found plenty to enjoy at Pulino’s, but it’s safe to say that no amount of positive sentiment will induce Steve Cuozzo to dine there any time soon. The dependably irascible Post critic has penned a vitriolic response to the letter Keith McNally wrote Adam Platt, in which he complained about Platt’s review of Pulino’s and called the New York critic bald and overweight.

Not one to miss a prime name-calling opportunity, Cuozzo calls McNally a “big, fat crybaby” and accuses him of using the rant to divert “attention from the new Bowery eatery’s conspicuous lack of fabulousness.” Cuozzo goes on to charge that “McNally has lost the creative daring that made him a Prince of the City,” claims that the “restaurant auteur”‘s more recent work has more in common with Godfather III than Coppola’s earlier masterpieces, and disparages Pulino’s “faux-distressed shtick.”

And perhaps most damningly, Cuzzo dismisses the restaurant as “hardly worth wasting a review on.” Which is fortunate for him, since he probably won’t be welcome there in the foreseeable future.