In the relative hush of an early morning in Chinatown, Lucky King Bakery’s glass doors swing open and shut with the regularity of a metronome. Inside, every table is taken, and a line has formed in front of the counter.
While the place does sell the baked buns, Pullman bread, and cakes that you see at every other Chinatown bakery, most people are here for the quickie dim sum items, held in a huge warming cabinet behind the counter. There are small dishes of chicken feet, cheong fun rice noodle rolls stuffed with pork ribs or shrimp, pork balls, and so on.
One morning, an order of eggplant stuffed with fish, fishballs, and bean curd skin stuffed with pork and wood ear mushrooms cost $5.80 and would have fed two hearty eaters. The bean curd was particularly good, crackly and well-seasoned, the filling juicy.
280 Grand Street