In his latest book, Medium Raw, Anthony Bourdain spews a predictable amount of vitriol across wide swaths of the food world. One of his numerous targets is John Mariani, the Esquire critic, whom Bourdain terms “a professional junketeer” and “one-man schnorrer.” Mariani has responded with a diatribe of his own. Writing on the Esquire site, he calls Bourdain “increasingly troubled, cobra-heart-eating, self-loathing,” takes the opportunity to dis the Les Halles Cookbook, and writes:
He once had a novel voice, an iconoclast’s passion, but now he has spiraled down to the level of the foul-mouthed bloggers who idolize him. Once he was a valuable demolisher of culinary pretension; now he is a fanatic seeking to shore up his own sick TV persona.
Also, Mariani notices that Bourdain has a bit of a potty mouth.