Lucas Fine Foods opened in Park Slope this weekend. Prepared foods like barbecued pork ribs and Cajun-spiced shrimp beckoned from the display cases, but since the shop didn’t have its full menu up and running yet, we went for the ice cream, homemade by Brian Smith of Ample Hills Creamery.
The name of the ice cream company refers to a passage from Walt Whitman’s “Crossing Brooklyn Ferry”: “I too lived, Brooklyn of ample hills was mine …” Smith is making his cold confections from inside the new shop, prime real estate for sweets-craving children.
Flavors available included peppermint patty, maple-candied bacon, and chocolate, but the most interesting was chocolate stout pretzel. It’s wonderfully intense, tasting deeply and darkly of chocolate and stout, with a serious beer flavor and a big hit of bitterness. Nearly every bite turns up a bit of chocolate-covered pretzel. It strikes us as a very adult ice cream, unless your kid likes bitter and salty flavors with his or her chocolate.
At $3.85 a scoop, Ample Hills ice cream is expensive, but it’s also so dense and vivid that a smaller serving is enough.
Lucas Fine Foods
847A Union Street, Brooklyn