Robert Sietsema at El Cantinero; Sarah DiGregorio at Tamarind Tribeca


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds an unchanging temple to Tex-Mex in El Cantinero. Sarah DiGregorio is impressed by pan-Indian Tamarind Tribeca, despite its broad range of cuisines.

Sam Sifton finds hits and misses at ABC Kitchen, but still awards it two stars: “The food is great and not terribly expensive. It is a pretty room. The crowd runs high-wattage with net worth to match.”
[NY Times]

Adam Platt is enamored with the newly reopened Annisa, which offers “an experience that strikes that delicate (and increasingly rare) balance between modern style, classic technique, and pure, old-fashioned gourmet pleasure.”
[NY Magazine]

Jay Cheshes loves the food, but not so much the chef’s attitude at the Kitchen at Brooklyn Fare: “There’s no doubt that [César] Ramirez produces some astonishing food — some of the best small-plate cuisine in New York — in an unlikely and uncomfortable venue, but his lack of humility makes a poor digestif.”
[Time Out]

Ryan Sutton falls for Torrisi Italian Specialties: “It evokes Momofuku Ko’s stripped down, rock & roll approach to fine dining, which is to say local and seasonal with a pinch of processed food, all in a no-tablecloth, no seat padding, prix-fixe-only setting.”

Alan Richman finds Pulino’s to be not very Italian, the pizzas so-so: “[C]rusts are thin, moderately flavorful, somewhere between chewy and crisp. They’re kind of Roman … difficult to pick up and fold, the way New Yorkers like to eat their pizza. The toppings are okay.”

Gael Greene revisits Pearl Oyster Bar as part of her summer tradition: “[F]our lobster rolls hit the table. I didn’t care what anyone thought. I was in a mayo junkie swoon.”
[Insatiable Critic]

Tables for Two finds the menu at the Mark to be “more petting zoo than safari … spectacle generally trumps taste, or at least preempts it.”
[New Yorker]