Food

Robert Sietsema at El Cantinero; Sarah DiGregorio at Tamarind Tribeca

by

This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds an unchanging temple to Tex-Mex in El Cantinero. Sarah DiGregorio is impressed by pan-Indian Tamarind Tribeca, despite its broad range of cuisines.

Sam Sifton finds hits and misses at ABC Kitchen, but still awards it two stars: “The food is great and not terribly expensive. It is a pretty room. The crowd runs high-wattage with net worth to match.”
[NY Times]

Adam Platt is enamored with the newly reopened Annisa, which offers “an experience that strikes that delicate (and increasingly rare) balance between modern style, classic technique, and pure, old-fashioned gourmet pleasure.”
[NY Magazine]

Jay Cheshes loves the food, but not so much the chef’s attitude at the Kitchen at Brooklyn Fare: “There’s no doubt that [César] Ramirez produces some astonishing food — some of the best small-plate cuisine in New York — in an unlikely and uncomfortable venue, but his lack of humility makes a poor digestif.”
[Time Out]

Ryan Sutton falls for Torrisi Italian Specialties: “It evokes Momofuku Ko‘s stripped down, rock & roll approach to fine dining, which is to say local and seasonal with a pinch of processed food, all in a no-tablecloth, no seat padding, prix-fixe-only setting.”
[Bloomberg]

Alan Richman finds Pulino’s to be not very Italian, the pizzas so-so: “[C]rusts are thin, moderately flavorful, somewhere between chewy and crisp. They’re kind of Roman … difficult to pick up and fold, the way New Yorkers like to eat their pizza. The toppings are okay.”
[GQ/Forked]

Gael Greene revisits Pearl Oyster Bar as part of her summer tradition: “[F]our lobster rolls hit the table. I didn’t care what anyone thought. I was in a mayo junkie swoon.”
[Insatiable Critic]

Tables for Two finds the menu at the Mark to be “more petting zoo than safari … spectacle generally trumps taste, or at least preempts it.”
[New Yorker]

Have a restaurant tip or other food-related news? Send it to fork@villagevoice.com.

More:

Most Popular