Food

Pics From Coney Island Taste Peruvian Restaurant in Brooklyn

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A study in yellow: Papas ala Huancaina, a mountain dish that resulted when Indians and conquistadors put their culinary might together.

Sing a song of Coney Island Avenue, that arrow-straight thoroughfare that connects Brooklyn’s Parade Grounds with Brighton Beach on Coney Island, sojourning 4.5 miles en route, uniting Sephardic Jew and Pakistani, Mexican and Russian, Turk and Central Asian. Nothing better than navigating its length, stopping to eat wherever the food looks good. Such was the case recently, when Counter Culture, in desperate need of nourishment, stumbled on Coney Island Taste, a Peruvian grocery turned into an excellent cafe. Here are some of the things we ate.

Pristine mussels ceviche was a special one afternoon.

As with other Peruvians in the city, Coney Island Taste is great if you only want a spice-rubbed rotisserie chicken.

It’s also perfect if you just want a fried porgy with yucca fries and lime-pickled purple onions — delish!

Chinese fried rice arrived in Peru with indentured field workers, and has flourished ever since.

With its flavoring of bay leaf and cilantro, “tripe Italian style” isn’t too Italian, but it’s nonetheless tasty. French fries underneath soak up the juices.

My voracious guests one Friday evening.