Robert Sietsema at Peruvian Bodega-Turned-Resto Coney Island Taste


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema gets treated to giant heaps of fried seafood at former Peruvian bodega Coney Island Taste.

Sam Sifton awards Torrisi Italian Specialties two stars: “Over the course of a number of meals, over a number of months, the restaurant shows itself to be towering in its ambition.”
[NY Times]

Dining Briefs include a nod to steak that rivals Peter Luger’s at Benchmark, and an eye roll at preachy green vegetarian newcomer Otarian.
[NY Times]

Adam Platt approves of Má Pêche: “[David] Chang has exported his patented style of dining to midtown. And if anyone thought the chef would adapt his game for this new, more sedate audience, they were wrong.”
[NY Magazine]

Meanwhile, Steve Cuozzo finds Má Pêche to be not “as daring or original as Chang’s downtown Momofuku ’empire’ … But it serves a broader audience than East Villagers with time on their hands to wait 45 minutes for tables.”
[NY Post]

Jay Cheshes is less enthusiastic about Má Pêche: “Casual and muted, the dishes are often pleasant but rarely exciting, neither as challenging nor as groundbreaking as so much of the food served at Chang’s other restaurants.”
[Time Out]

Ryan Sutton is none too pleased with his steak at Wolfgang’s: “It sizzles. It hisses. It’s flavorless. Tastes like one of those vegetable proteins vegans consume when they want to pretend they’re eating meat.”

Tables for Two recommends sticking to the chicken at Pies ‘n’ Thighs: “The star of the menu is the fried chicken, with a batter both perfectly crisped and richly succulent. … By comparison, pulled pork and beef brisket are unexceptional.”
[New Yorker]