Okeanos: New Greek in Park Slope

Okeanos opened on Seventh Avenue in Park Slope this winter. It calls itself Mediterranean, but is Greek-owned and leans toward the food of that country. The centerpiece of the menu is whole grilled fish, like the charred sardines above.

Under the fishes’ crisp skins is moist, pleasantly oily, smoky flesh. They’re served with your choice of sides — in this case, lemon potatoes and faintly bitter dandelion greens. The entire shebang is big enough for two and costs $16.

Grilled octopus ($8) is also nicely charred and tender, but the potatoes underneath are not quite cooked through.

The mixed seafood platter ($10) includes creamy, briny taramosalata, smoked salmon and mackerel, and a slightly bizarre seafood terrine that manages to include roasted red peppers, salmon, skordalia, and a thin layer of butter.

All in all, it’s a solid restaurant with fair prices, and there isn’t really anything else quite like it in the area, especially for the grilled whole fish. It’s a funny blend of serious (white tablecloths) and casual (televisions playing the news) that’s reminiscent of some of the Astoria Greek spots. We’d like to stop by at night to try the selection of Greek wines and spirits, including ouzo and tsikoudia, a grappa-like liquor from Crete.

Okeanos
314 Seventh Avenue, Brooklyn
347-725-4162