Food

Pics From the Commodore, a New Bar-Restaurant in Williamsburg, Brooklyn

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Outside: the kind of anonymous corner bar where — were it not in your neighborhood — you might hesitate to enter.

This week Counter Culture examines the Commodore, the conjoinment of a bar intent on selling you retro-cocktails at relatively low prices, with a cafe of locavoric propensities, whose menu handily straddles standard bar food and market-driven fare. Here are some of the things my friends and I sampled there.

Inside: It might be your dad’s rec room from an earlier decade. Pick up the guitar and have a strum!

The hamburger may be the best I’ve eaten this year: totally without pretense, compact, and perfect in every detail.

The house Bloody Mary has plenty of horseradish, and a splash of aquavit.

The green-chile pork tacos are also fab.

But who knows quite what to do with the deconstructed cocktail called tequila banderas?

The fried chicken sandwich may remind you of Pies ‘n’ Thighs. Actually, it looks like a battered and deep-fried turtle.

The french fries as as good as you’ll ever get in a bar …

though we didn’t much like the “adult cheese” sandwich, with its weird oozy filling.

Hard to believe this is a salad you got in a bar.