This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema has a stiff drink and the usual “retro-Southern-locavoric-hash-house fare” at the Commodore in Williamsburg. Sarah DiGregorio chews on some raw tripe and grills beef heart at Takashi.
Sam Sifton approves of the newly reopened Annisa, where Anita Lo “is not by any means a flashy chef. She does not stalk the dining room in gleaming whites, glad-handing patrons and accepting praise. She simply stays in the kitchen and works, cooking as the Puget Sound novelist David Guterson writes: precisely, with earth in closest proximity to sea.”
Jay Cheshes couldn’t agree more about Annisa: “The compositions, often inspired by the chef’s own eating adventures (in 2009 she was crisscrossing the globe), are so intensely personal, they seem to exist in a vacuum. While her colleagues, in collective retrenchment, all appear to be stuck in the same comfort-food rut, [Anita] Lo takes a singular stand for old-fashioned refinement.”
Ryan Sutton can remember what he ate at Kenmare: “Kenmare’s otherwise savvy brain trust — Paul Sevigny of the erstwhile Beatrice Inn, Nur Khan of Rose Bar — have given New York a fair, forgettable restaurant, another mess hall-cum-social club (see also: Waverly Inn, Monkey Bar, The Lion).”
Alan Richman says that “Everything isn’t quite right about the promising and pleasant restaurant Print, located on the ground floor of the Ink48 Hotel. … [Chef Charles] Rodriguez shows promise, but the menus are badly in need of coherence, to say nothing of editing.”
Have a restaurant tip or other food-related news? Send it to firstname.lastname@example.org.