This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema uncovers Brazilian-Nepalese fusion at Katmandu Spice. Sarah DiGregorio takes a break from eating to read Twain’s Feast: Searching for America’s Lost Foods in the Footsteps of Samuel Clemens.
Sam Sifton awards Kenmare no stars, proclaiming that “the food is inconsequential.” Still, he says, Joey Campanaro’s meatball sliders are “probably the best available option on any part of the menu.”
Jay Cheshes is not impressed with the new chef at Aquavit: “Under … Marcus Jernmark, the food falls well short of the standards [Marcus] Samuelsson set.”
Jeremy Gerard finds great deals on wine at Accademia di Vino: “Not to mention pretty good comfort food, well-enough turned out to complement those wines, which are the real story here.”
Underground Gourmet has good things to say about the Commodore, namely that it has “among the best fried chicken in town. But there is much more to Tanner’s brief menu.”
Gael Greene likes Plein Sud well enough despite some misses, finding the room “shockingly smiley-faced, welcoming, wanting to be a hangout for the neighborhood, affordable, accessible, all that current bistro jazz.”
Tables for Two asks of the Crosby Bar: “Why should a place as funky, posh, and oddly friendly as the Crosby Street Hotel (the latest outpost of London’s high-end Firmdale chain) have such middling food?”
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 7, 2010