Some sandwiches hit you with the subtlety of a freight train, bearing down with combustible spices, busy sauces, and fillings locked in heated competition with one another. That’s certainly not the case with Grandaisy Bakery’s Panino Greco.
Though it’s billed as a panino, the $7 sandwich is served cold, making it that much easier for it to showcase its few simple ingredients. A soft, slender length of bread is split and layered with velvety ribbons of carrot; nutty, creamy chickpeas; pickled purple onion; and rocket. Skordalia, the Greek spread traditionally made with garlic, almonds, and olive oil (as well as, depending on the recipe, pureed potatoes or stale bread), is smeared on the bread, lending a smooth, mildly pungent chorus to the other ingredients.
It’s a mellow sandwich, not eager to impress but instead content to simply satisfy. And on a summer afternoon, when the city threatens to collapse under the weight of heat and noise, the value of simple satisfaction cannot be overestimated.
176 West 72nd Street
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