Campo de’ Fiori, a new Roman-style pizza restaurant, opened just a week ago on Fifth Avenue in Park Slope. Italian owner and chef Andrea Dal Monte was a manager at Del Posto and is also reportedly an owner of Acquolina in Rome. Since the place has opened so recently, it’s too early to evaluate it, but we were excited to get an early look at those rectangular pies.
While Neapolitan pizza — the kind we’ve seen so much of lately — is most often round with a bubbly-puffy and soft crust; Roman-style pizza is often oblong or rectangular, and the crust is generally a bit thinner and crisper than Neapolitan. While a Neapolitan pizza will be saggy and juicy in the middle, a piece of Roman-style pizza is usually sturdy enough to be picked up and eaten out of hand. Regional variations abound, but this is our understanding of the main differences between the two.
Campo de’ Fiori’s pizzas are made into rectangles, cut into four square pieces. The crust is a bit thicker than we thought it would be (perhaps a half-inch thick), and very crisp on the outside, slightly softer on the inside. It tastes sweetly yeasty and just a bit salty.
The pizza rustica ($14.50), shown above, is crowned with shredded potatoes — a common Roman topping — caramelized sweet onions, strips of mortadella, and chile oil. It’s savory and pleasantly spicy.
Then there’s this potato-salmon pie ($15.50), topped with the smoked fish, a dollop of sour cream, and chives. The salty fish is tasty against the potatoes and sour cream, like a pizza version of lox and latkes.
Campo de’ Fiori
187 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on July 22, 2010