Artie’s Delicatessen may not be in the same league as Barney Greengrass and Katz’s, but it’s a fine place to linger over breakfast, listening to the waitress verbally abuse a table of teenagers and gorging on the free half-and-full sour pickles and sweet, crunchy coleslaw that are plunked down in big silver bowls.
The nova lox platter is generous in the extreme, anchored by a heap of the silken salmon (from Zabar’s down the street), plus a scoop of potato salad, cream cheese, yet more coleslaw, capers, onion, vegetables, and an H&H bagel. It’s all arranged on a lettuce-lined plate, looking pleasantly retro.
You can also get eggs scrambled with caramelized onion and that lox, with a crisp potato pancake on the side instead of home fries. You can walk in, drink several cups of coffee, eat your fill, and be out before the brunch line at Sarabeth’s has budged.