This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema sees his goat-head stew staring back at him at Buka in Clinton Hill, while Sarah DiGregorio finds that new neighborhood Korean Mrs. Kim’s hits the mark in Greenpoint.
Sam Sifton finds the food at the Lion OK, but complains that it “swapped the warm exclusivity of the Waverly for a kind of populism that is more inclusive, but also far louder and less pleasant.”
Adam Platt is even less impressed with the Lion: “I can’t say it’s worth it. On my first visit, the menu was full of flowery, extraneous items. … The since-revised menu is smaller and easier to navigate, but the memorable items are still few and far between.”
Ryan Sutton also has few kind words for the Lion, finding that it pales in comparison to the Waverly Inn: “The Lion will take your calls and serve you expensive American fare that’s generally better and cheaper elsewhere.”
Jay Cheshes is rather taken with Tanoreen, deeming the cooking “Middle Eastern soul food … based on tradition but not enslaved by it.”
Gael Greene has a whole eight-pound octopus at La Fonda del Sol, but asserts that most of what she’s eaten and written about is available on the menu.
Tables for Two likes Torrisi Italian Specialties well enough, but notes that “[t]he most interesting dishes tend to arrive early. … Dinner could have ended [with the starters], with accolades. The entrées, though, displayed excessive force.”