“Lobster sushi,” proclaims a sign set above a container that looks, at first glance, to be filled with maki rolls.
Actually, it’s Sable’s trompe l’oeil version of sushi. The Upper East Side appetizing shop is owned by Danny and Kenny Sze, Hong Kong-born brothers who managed the appetizing department at Zabar’s for 12 years before splitting off to open their own place. Browse the shop and every few seconds you’ll be plied with a sample of smoked salmon or whitefish salad.
The lobster sushi is an odd mash-up of lobster salad — mayo-heavy, augmented with celery and bits of pickle — wrapped up with smoked salmon. Is it the best lobster salad and smoked salmon you’ve ever had? Probably not, but there’s something really appealing about the way the salty, fatty salmon squishes into the rich, sweet salad. It’s not cheap at $15.50 per container, but it’s one of the tastiest strange snacks in the area.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 5, 2010