Terroir’s Riesling Evangelism Taken to Task by Frank Bruni


Riesling fans wanting to persuade their friends of its charms: Apparently Terroir has your back — in a major way.

The wine bar and restaurant co-owned by Paul Grieco and Marco Canora has taken the rather ferocious step of eliminating all other white wines by the glass at its two downtown locations in an effort to galvanize the grape’s popularity this summer. Grieco himself, the man responsible and a gent given to wearing jackets that look “like pajamas,” is the subject of a profile by Frank Bruni in this Sunday’s Times.

The Brunificent One takes on Grieco’s mission, his fashion, and the concept of being “forcefully herded” to appreciate a wine more. (For Bruni, at least, it worked.) If your buddies are the sort to wrinkle their noses and say, “It’s too sweet for me,” Grieco is ready for you: “RIESLING IS NOT INHERENTLY A SWEET WINE,” he declares — in red — in the first line of a Web page devoted exclusively to his summer of Riesling, which includes an ode purportedly written by his four-year-old son.

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