This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema shares his appreciation for I Sodi, “one largely overlooked restaurant in town that has succeeded in reproducing an actual Tuscan bill of fare, such as you might find in roadside osterias near Cortona or Gaiole-in-Chianti.” Sarah DiGregorio files on Co Ba in Chelsea: “serving the same kind of homey Vietnamese cooking offered at those neighborhood stalls, though [chef-owner Steven Duong’s] version is prettified and upscale.”
Ryan Sutton revisits Gari: “at 13-years old, still one of New York’s best raw fish joints,” although he is rather disappointed that it “serves a tasting of tuna made with Atlantic bluefin.”
Jay Cheshes ventures into Il Matto, deeming it “the most theatrical new venue” in the city, adding that while the dishes are “outré, they aren’t quite as deranged as the setting.”
Gael Greene slums it on a food tour of Coney Island, starting at Nathan’s Famous, then heading to Randazzo’s Clam Bar in nearby Sheepshead Bay, as well as Denny’s Ice Cream and Williams Candy Store.
Tables for Two finds hits and misses among the pizzas at Pulino’s: “One of the best is the polpettine, where you get meatballs again, along with Grana and delicious pickled chiles. One of the worst is the tonno, a discomfiting concoction of tuna, anchovies, capers, and, instead of cheese, vigorous globs of tomato sauce.”