This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds true Hong Kong cuisine at Yee Kee H.K. Style in Brooklyn and East Ocean Palace in Queens, while Sarah DiGregorio discovers Louisiana fare at Honeychiles’ in the Williamsburg punk-rock bar the Charleston that is “far, far better than you’d expect to get at a comfy, down-at-the-heels bar, and some of it easily surpasses the cooking at New York’s many new upscale Southern restaurants.”
Julia Moskin files on the Plaza Food Hall: “a kind of glorified cafeteria, a much-needed place to stop in Midtown for a quick salade niçoise ($14) or potato pizza ($14) or even chilled soba noodle salad with snow peas, cilantro and a mild green chili buzz ($9).”
Adam Platt expresses similar sentiments: “Does any of the cooking at the Plaza Food Hall retain the unique stamp of a great chef? Of course not. But these days, the term ‘great chef’ is a more diffuse, salable quality than ever, and if you’re looking for a quick meal before booking a carriage ride through the Park or plunging into the scrum at the Fifth Avenue Apple store, you could do worse.”
Ryan Sutton falls for Annisa: “This is very good, often three-star food that belongs to the Jean-Georges school of almost-Asian. Expect French technique and American ingredients, with hints of heat and sweet to push, if not breach, boundaries.”
Instead of a review, Steve Cuozzo uses his column to bemoan the fall of so many great chefs: “Except for the stirring relaunch of Anita Lo’s Annisa, the year has mostly seen flubs and flops by lots of the city’s leading chefs and owners.”
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