Welcome to 100 Dishes to Eat Now, Fork in the Road’s handy list of some of our favorite dishes — old standbys and new finds alike — compiled daily.
Today’s pick: Whole grilled striped bass with two sides ($23) at Okeanos (314 Seventh Avenue, Brooklyn).
Skip the more elaborate stuff at Okeanos, and stick to the simple Greek dishes, foremost among them the whole grilled fish. The sardines are a great choice, but so is the pearly fleshed striped bass, which is in season now.
It arrives at the table slightly charred, giving off an herb-scented steam — rosemary and fresh bay leaves are stuffed in the belly. Pull the moist meat gently off the bone and add a squeeze of lemon. The friendly young waitress, who seems to have been pulled from Mystic Pizza, might chat you up about her father’s boat, and how she’ll eat striped bass for breakfast, lunch, and dinner after he goes out fishing.
You have your pick of two sides — one night garlic green beans were the vegetable of the day, and they proved to be pungent and delicious. Otherwise, order the bitter-edged, sautéed dandelion greens. Lemon potatoes add their olive-oil-slicked heft.
Though $23 for a one-and-a-quarter pound fish, plus sides, might not seem a bargain, two people can easily make a meal of it, especially with the addition of an appetizer. The small, 200-milliliter bottle of chilled ouzo will also easily keep two people happy for $10.
Next: Survey the entire countdown so far …
Previously in the countdown:
Dish No. 100: Zaragoza Grocery’s Flor de Calabaza Quesadilla
Dish No. 99: No. 7 Sub Shop’s General Tso’s Tofu Sandwich
Dish No. 98: Nigerian Goat Stew From Baku
Dish No. 97: The Captain’s Daughter From Saltie
Dish No. 96: Bun Bo Hue From Thanh Da
Dish No. 95: The Beauty From Mile End
Dish No. 94: Potato, Egg, and Provolone on a Roll at Torrisi Italian Specialties
Dish No. 93: The Terrine Board at the Breslin Bar and Dining Room
Dish No. 92: Sausage and Egg Breakfast at La Bonbonniere
Dish No. 91: Roasted Carrots at Porchettta
Dish No. 90: Spicy Miso Ramen at Ramen Setagaya
Dish No. 89: Peanut Butter Pretzel Pie From First Prize Pies
Dish No. 88: Brown Butter, Corn, and Mushroom Linguine at Buttermilk Channel
Dish No. 87: Katsudon at Ennju
Dish No. 86: Fried Chicken With Two Sides at Soul Fixins
Dish No. 85: Fried Lamb Intestines at El Quinto Pino
Dish No. 84: Kunafa From Nablus Sweets
Dish No. 83: Potato Flatbread at Sahadi’s
Dish No. 82: Chicken-Fried Chicken Livers at Cornbread Diner
Dish No. 81: Taleggio, Broccoli Rabe, and Sausage Panini at Bocca Lupo
Dish No. 80: Hamburger at M. Wells in Long Island City
Dish No. 79: Vanilla Malted at Brooklyn Farmacy
Dish No. 78: Seafood Combo With Hot Sauce From Randazzo’s Clam Bar
Dish No. 77: Fried Ipswich Clams at Ed’s Lobster Bar
Dish No. 76: Banh Uot Thit Nuong (Grilled Pork and Noodles) at Co Ba
Dish No. 75: Schiacciata con l’Uva at Sullivan Street Bakery
Dish No. 74: Cornish Pasty at Myers of Keswick
Dish No. 73: Baklava at Güllüoglu
Dish No. 72: Sauerkraut Noodles at 8th Avenue Noodles
Dish No. 71: The Super Heebster at Russ & Daughters
Dish No. 70: Grilled Octopus at Thistle Hill Tavern
Dish No. 69: Firefly Squid at Momokawa
Dish No. 68: Chicken Mole Enchiladas at Tulcingo Del Valle
Dish No. 67: Fish ‘n’ Chips at Sel de Mer
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on August 24, 2010
More:100 Favorite Dishes