Looking like an apostrophe, the pickled pork tongue, served with mustard and wonderfully flaky homemade soda crackers, is one of my favorite dishes so far at M. Wells. Tender as hell, it didn’t really taste either pickle-y or salty.
Part of the fun of following M. Wells, which has been open nearly two months now, is watching the menu unfold, in a sort of slow and methodical soft opening. Though the hours are still restricted from 7 a.m. till 3 p.m. on weekdays, they may soon be extended to weekend brunch, and, after that, to a full dinner service. M. Wells is waiting on its liquor license (and the development of more evening-oriented dishes) to become a full-time restaurant.
The Sunnyside tomato salad is named in tribute to the nearby farmers’ market, where the tomatoes were collected.
One of the specials, which seemed like a dinner dish in development, was a trio of broiled scallops in a cheesy sauce — really wonderful.
Our least favorite on this occasion was a blood-sausage hash — though my friends and I liked the concept, the sausage itself was squishy rather than crumbly, and low on loamy flavor.