This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema gets his drink on at Aria, Pinkerton, and Enoteca on Court, three wine bars in the city. Sarah DiGregorio finds a restaurant searching for its identity at Nuela.
Sam Sifton is thoroughly unimpressed with Plein Sud, but finds Wall & Water to be “a delightful surprise, a case of pleasure arising out of diminished expectations.” [NY Times]
Oliver Strand samples the pies at three new pizzerias: Olio Pizza e Più, Paulie Gee’s, and Totale, noting that the strategy at all three is to “focus on pizza and keep the prices down so nobody will care if you punt on the salads, side dishes, and desserts.” [NY Times]
Steve Cuozzo revisits Upstairs now that it’s called Studio, deeming it as lovely as ever and wondering if the delicate Japanese fare was “a tantalizing preview of [chef Iseo] Yamada’s BrushStroke,” David Bouley’s forthcoming venture. [NY Post]
Instead of a review this week, Ryan Sutton lists his dining pet peeves, including loud music, places that don’t transfer bar tabs, and establishments that don’t take credit cards. [Bloomberg]
Gael Greene finds hits and misses among the outrageously named dishes at Xiao Ye: “‘Help U Poo Poo Greens’ may be unsettling as table-talk but I’m more offended that the snow pea leaves stir fried with garlic are coarse and chewy, not the delicate early sprouts I would hope for at $10.” [Insatiable Critic]
Tables for Two is taken with Luke’s Lobster’s simple signature lobster roll: “[M]ost people are there for the main item, and it delivers.” [New Yorker]
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