Vegetarian and vegan food has come a long, long way since its Precambrian Era of alfalfa sprouts and earth-toned mystery grains, but there are times when it’s fun to embrace the stereotypes and eat something that reeks of both wholesomeness and fermented soybeans. And for those occasions, you could do much worse than ‘sNice’s smoked tempeh wrap.
It’s a mammoth thing, this tempeh wrap ($8.75 including tax), designed not just to quell hunger but to totally incapacitate it. Chunks of smoked tempeh are enfolded with lettuce, tomatoes, avocado, and vegan chipotle mayo into a whole-wheat tortilla, which struggles heroically to contain its hefty cargo. The tortilla’s been griddled, so it’s nice and crispy, setting it well ahead of the flaccid, gummy wrap bread that too many sandwich places like to peddle.
The tempeh is surprisingly tender and has a subtle smokiness that works well with the mayo, which has a decent amount of heat and is applied with a liberal but not overbearing hand. The lettuce and tomatoes are very fresh and almost make up for the sins of the avocado, which, when we tried it, was under-ripe almost to the point of being inedible.
Avocados aside, the wrap is a generous, satisfying creation; love letters to vegetable sustenance and hippie nostalgia rarely come better-composed.
315 Fifth Avenue, Brooklyn
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