This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema discovers true Roman fare at Testaccio in Long Island City; Sarah DiGregorio samples the pies at two new pizzerias, Olio Pizza e Più and Campo de’ Fiori.
Sam Sifton awards two stars to Il Matto: “Nothing about the restaurant is perfect. … The cocktails … are mostly silly. … But the service is exceptional and the food beautifully executed.”
Betsy Andrews files on Strong Place, which “seems cut from the Blue Ribbon mold: an ambitious but crowd-pleasing New American bistro with seafood as a draw. But, unlike its potential role model, Strong Place is easily affordable.”
Gael Greene approves of the food, but not so much the room, at Vandaag, and again likes the food, but doesn’t care for the service, at Recette.
Tables for Two isn’t quite sold on Má Pêche, which “battles valiantly against the limitations of its room. … [T]here isn’t a dud on the menu, but there’s no real triumph, either.”
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