Steamed pork buns abound in Chinatowns across the city, but a good one is harder to find.
The fluffy versions peddled at Mei Li Wah on Bayard Street are a paragon of the form. Puffy, cotton-light steamed mantou encases a hot, goopy pork stuffing that’s slightly sweetish without being syrupy, and just fatty enough to be luscious rather than gristly and flaccid. No red food coloring here, just chunks of braised meat, some with just a bit of seared edge, others tender as pot roast.
Mei Li Wah’s steamed pork buns are only 80 cents each and large enough that two make a satisfying meal. The shop also sells tasty rice paper rolls and other Cantonese bakery treats.
Mei Li Wah
62-64 Bayard Street
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on September 14, 2010