We’ve long been disinclined to like cake truffles, mainly because they seem like the kind of dessert that’s geared toward people who find even cupcakes to be too big a commitment. How small can cake be before it is no longer cake, but the product of a guilt-ridden dieter’s efforts to simultaneously avoid and indulge in dessert? Given the choice, we’d rather have a hulking slab of cake. But when a trusted friend raved to us about Momofuku Milk Bar’s apple pie cake truffles, claiming they were the best thing since, well, apple pie, we shoved aside our skepticism and bought a bag.
The truffles seem to have been conceived in part to satisfy customers disappointed by the Milk Bar’s decision to no longer carry cake slices. A bag of three costs $3, and in theory you could buy enough bags until you had the equivalent of a slice of cake, not to mention a gut ache.
While we still wish Milk Bar was selling actual cake slices, the cake truffles are a pretty good compromise. The apple pie variety tasted exactly like an actual apple pie, and made us instantly envision orange leaves, decorative corncobs, and people running around in duck boots. It was, in other words, very good. While we’d still rather have a slice of apple pie cake, it must be said that the truffles are a pretty ingenious form of portion control. As such, they fall squarely on the Skinny Jeans end of the Fat Pants spectrum, though if you suck down three in rapid succession, the jeans may have to be unbuttoned. Also, your teeth will ache.
Momofuku Milk Bar
207 Second Avenue
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