Just as the lament over the end of peach season begins to take hold, Concord grapes have swept into local farmers’ markets, making us forget all about our stone fruit infatuation. These bright bluer-than-blueberry blue orbs are bursting with such Welch’s grape-juice grapeyness that you’d swear some artificial flavoring was added to them. The farmer at Fort Greene Farmers Market who sold us about a pound of Concords for $4, advised us to forgo the skins and just squeeze the gelatinous sweet flesh right into our mouths. It’s sound advice, but we prefer the added tannic bitterness of the whole thing in there. Of course, the market isn’t the only place you’ll find Concord grapes these days.
Turns out, they’re the latest trendy seasonal cocktail ingredient. Peels uses them in a couple of its signature drinks, including the Purple Lady and conspicuously named Joey Ramone. Jean-Georges Vongerichten is debuting a Concord Grape Mimosa and housemade soda at Spice Market this fall.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on September 22, 2010