Although fall has so far proven to be a humid, sodden disappointment, Colicchio & Sons decided to mark the alleged onset of the season by selling doughnuts on the Highline. Since mid-September (and through Oct. 13), the restaurant has been hawking both apple cider doughnuts and pumpkin doughnut holes, the latter of which come with cream cheese frosting. If there’s one thing we find more even more irresistible than pumpkin doughnuts, it’s pumpkin doughnuts with cream cheese frosting.
So we bought a $4 wax-paper bag, which contained five holes and a small container of the frosting. The rotund little orbs were crusted in sugar, which gave them appealing crunch. Otherwise, their texture was, while not bad, not great, either: the holes were more chewy than fluffy, and their crust beneath the sugar coating was slightly gummy, as though they’d been out of the deep-fryer for a little too long. Flavor-wise, they were indeed redolent of pumpkin, although once the frosting was applied, they could have tasted like wet cardboard and it wouldn’t have been an issue. A perfect if unholy union between fat and sugar, it rendered the doughnuts nearly irrelevant, relegating them to the role of mere delivery vehicle. Colicchio & Sons may want to consider marketing it as a combination anti-depressant and marriage aid.
The frosting transports the doughnut holes into the near reaches of Sweatpants territory, all but negating their diminutive size. And while they’re not doughnuts to go far out of your way for (you’d be better off going to an actual cider mill in New Jersey), they make an enjoyable accompaniment to a walk up and down the Highline, if and when the sun ever comes out again.
Colicchio & Sons doughnut cart
near the 16th Street and Tenth Avenue Highline entrance