Food

Primavera Pizza at Toby’s Public House

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Toby’s Public House
has ensconced itself on the quiet block where Sixth Avenue runs into Green-Wood Cemetery. You might expect the crowds to be sparse, but the restaurant is always humming, full of neighbors and warm from the glow of the brick wood-burning oven. Baseball or soccer usually plays on the flat-screens, giving the place a touch of sports bar.

Toby’s pizzas strike a nice balance between Neapolitan-style (an airy crust, damp in the center) and New York-style (not so damp that you can’t pick it up, with a crust that has some crunch to it).

There are plenty of vegetarian pizzas on the menu, but foremost among them is this primavera pizza, loaded with artichokes, olives, red onion, and arugula ($15). The flurry of arugula on top is just enough — it doesn’t overwhelm the pizza or fall off in your lap — and the artichokes, red onions, and olives all add their salty or pungent savoriness.