Descended from a beloved shoebox across the street, once staffed by a fundraising crew from a Bronx church, the most recent incarnation of A Taste of Seafood is a spacious, bi-level place that verges on the luxurious, plastered with all sorts of maritime geegaws. Luckily, the quality of the fried whiting (or pick catfish, if you must) remains unsurpassed, so carefully breaded and fried that each individual fillet belongs in the Fish Fry Hall of Fame. When heaped on whole-wheat bread with a squirt of the thickest tartar sauce you’ve ever seen, and maybe a drop or two of Tabasco, the fillets make the best fried-fish sandwich ever tasted.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on October 20, 2010
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