After 25 years, the French-Vietnamese restaurant Indochine still feels like a zingy private party, even on a regular night when it’s not closed off for one. The crowd is as lively and star-studded as ever (there’s Moby! Look, it’s David Bowie!), and you see people actually table-hopping to greet their notable friends, which is far from acceptable behavior at stuffier eateries. The Paper mag–drenched ambience—carefully nurtured by owners Jean-Marc Houmard, Michael Callahan, and Huy Chi Le—keeps things hopping, and the mix of fashion types, business-world people, and mysterious oddities, all chattering away in multiple languages, has become a very particular New York treasure that defies all the odds. The spring rolls are great, too. And if you can get into the private parties, when the place is closed off, more power to you.