Right off the bat, the menu listing suggests excess and abandon. At Midnight Express, the advertised rice pudding and Nutella sundae conjures images of fudge-and-yogurt-dipped rock candy, as well as sudden cardiac arrest.
At this Yorkville greasy spoon, your sweet tooth will indeed be sated even as your heart stops beating. A mousse-like base, chocolate-hazelnut vein, and cinnamon-dusted whipped topping create a veritable mountain of milk and sugar. What excels in this uber-rich dish is the faint saltiness and slight chewiness of the Nutella. Woody and crisp, this spread — which probably belongs on everything all the time — keeps the item out of the toothless-eats/nursing-home-cafeteria category.
Ice cream and fruit are also supposed to be present at this palate party, according to the menu. But they didn’t show. This probably bodes well for the offering. Only a barely sweetened, dark chocolate ice cream could probably work in this vanilla- and sugar-intense selection. Fruit would feel forced. A chunk of cantaloupe, a strawberry sliver, or a slice of pineapple would suggest a parfait with an identity crisis.
Like a fried candy bar at a county fair, this $6 pick speaks directly to the curious glutton. Try it if you’re in the area, but know that it’s not gross or great enough for a special trip uptown.
1715 Second Avenue
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