Tourtières and Nuns’ Farts at M. Wells Ce Soir


Here in America, November is all about Thanksgiving. We spend the whole month talking about that big turkey dinner we’re going to have at the end of it. But in Quebec, Thanksgiving is already over and done with. November instead marks the beginning of tourtière season.

Tonight at M. Wells in Long Island City, chef-owner Hugue Dufour is celebrating the return of his meat pies with a prix fixe. The crusts come filled with spiced ground pork and any combination of beef, chicken, venison, and guinea hen, as well as potatoes, mushrooms, onions, and beer and wine. (That’s right: There is still no liquor license here, but there’s plenty of booze in the pie. And, actually, there will be libations tonight.)

For dessert, there’s another French-Canadian oddity on the menu: Pets de Soeurs, or Nuns’ Farts. They’re essentially leftover bits of pie dough rolled up with butter, brown sugar, and cinnamon, and fried. The meal is $60, all inclusive, at 8 ce soir.

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