“So much of the fresh pasta we buy here is generally bad,” Sara Jenkins once told us. Today in The Atlantic she makes her case for the dried stuff, which the gourmet orthodoxy would have us believe is vastly inferior to the freshly made variety.
In Italy, where Jenkins grew up, pretty much everyone ate dried pasta. Fresh pasta was only for special occasions and, she writes, “since there is no regulation on how it’s made, it’s less reliable and often inferior to artisan dried pasta.” Plus, thanks to the rough bronze dyes used in its production, it’s got great texture for clinging to sauces. Also, it basically never goes bad.
So Jenkins won’t be making her own pasta at Porsena, despite most people’s “automatic assumption” that she will. Hey, if the Torrisi guys can use Progresso bread crumbs, is dried pasta really a cause for alarm?