Although the arrival of gray, clammy weather has a way of driving people either to the bar or to the pill bottle, a more appetizing – and affordable – source of succor can be found in Angelica Kitchen’s three-bean chili.
To those who like to insist that chili isn’t really chili without man-sized chunks of meat, Angelica’s acts as a persuasive rebuke. Thanks to kidney and pinto beans, lentils, and seitan, it’s protein pay dirt; thanks to its abundance of chilies, sun-dried tomatoes, and robustly seasoned vegetables, it’s also intensely flavorful.
The chili is served with lime-jalapeño tofu-sour cream that tastes neither like lime nor jalapeños but is still delectably tangy; it also comes with what is described as butternut squash-red onion salsa that, while it does contain butternut squash and red onions, is definitely not salsa. It is, however, delicious when mixed into the chili.
The chili also comes with cornbread, though we opted for brown rice – either way, the combination of carbs and beans makes a deeply savory meal that’s also wholesome enough to make Marion Nestle weep hot, salty tears of joy.
300 East 12th Street
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on November 16, 2010
More:Vegetarian and Vegan