Robert Sietsema Heads Uptown to Szechuan Chalet


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema finds authentic Sichuan uptown — of all places — at Szechuan Chalet.

Sam Sifton awards two stars to Lincoln: “[S]uccess in the kitchen does not mean Lincoln yet works well as a restaurant. On that score, [chef Jonathan] Benno and the Patina Group still have some distance to go. They have built a restaurant that lacks a center — a restaurant in which it is possible to eat well without really having a good time.”
[NY Times]

Adam Platt approves of the primi, but not so much the secondi, at Osteria Morini: “After the fireworks of the early courses, in fact, many of the entrées at Osteria Morini had a leaden, slightly anticlimactic feel.”
[NY Magazine]

Meanwhile, Ryan Sutton finds the food at Osteria Morini a little too fatty: “[Chef-owner Michael White] should ease up on the cholesterol and make Morini the excellent restaurant it deserves to be.”

Gael Greene finds it too early to judge Lincoln — “it’s too early for a final judgment on so ambitious a dream” — but raves over the meatballs at Mia Dona.
[Insatiable Critic]