Robert Sietsema samples balut (duck embryo) and other pan-Asian treats at Umi Nom.
Sam Sifton awards one star to Osteria Morini, where “pastas glisten with pork fat, with butter, with cream, with oil. They are aggressively salted. They hang around on the outskirts of Too Much. … [Chef Michael] White puts Italian traditions through the American supersize machine.”
Meanwhile, Jay Cheshes raves over Osteria Morini: “Like a Babbo for east-siders, the casual spot’s old-world decor, lusty food and rock & roll soundtrack do more than any of its predecessors to position White as a worthy successor to Mario Batali’s throne.”
Adam Platt files on Harold Dieterle’s Kin Shop (“many of his ‘contemporary reinterpretations’ contain hearty Western elements”) and Bar Basque (the menu “is tightly focused and surprisingly well executed by a young Hawaiian chef named Yuhi Fujinaga”) and enjoys them both.
Steven Cuozzo is hugely disappointed in Lincoln: “So much has gone wrong — from the $20 million pavilion that looks like an accident to a kitchen still finding its way after two months to a floor crew displaying about as much excitement about the product as bored Metropolitan Opera House ushers.”