With the exception of a salad or two,Taïm Mobile doesn’t really offer anything different from Taïm, its immobile West Village progenitor. And that’s just fine, because it means that customers don’t have to go to Waverly Place to find the same excellent food.
Yesterday, after waiting in vain for a week for the truck to park somewhere in the vicinity of Fork in the Road HQ, we surrendered to our impatience and took the train down to the Financial District, where we found the Taïm crew parked in Hanover Square. There was a small line that moved quickly, thanks to the truck’s admirably efficient ordering system. We got a hummus sandwich on whole-wheat pita with pickled cabbage, Israeli salad, tahini, a boiled egg, and both amba (a pickled mango chutney) and s’rug (a Yemeni spicy sauce). Inspired by the gale-force winds that made our face feel like it was being sandblasted, we also ordered a container of split pea soup.
The soup, which cost $4, was a panacea, both for the cold and most of modern life’s shortcomings. The peas were plentiful and cooked just long enough to maintain a bit of bite, as were the diced carrots and onions interspersed throughout the soup. It was rich, full of body, and so wildly comforting that we just sat there on a park bench and drank it, oblivious to both wind and utensils. If we had to go through life with access to only one member of the soup family, it would be this one.
The sandwich ($5.50, plus $1 for the egg) was exactly what we’ve come to expect from Taïm, meaning all of its components were very fresh and thoughtfully made. The hummus was reliably creamy, the Israeli salad’s tomatoes, cucumbers, and parsley invigorated by the lemon-mint dressing, and the amba and s’rug present in sweet and spicy notes that lent the sandwich an appetizing cacophony.
Altogether, it made for the most enjoyable time we’ve ever had sitting in a Financial District office plaza in 33-degree weather. Our digits may have frozen, but our GI tract was warmed.
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This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on December 7, 2010
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