Robert Sietsema at Harold Dieterle’s Kin Shop


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema approves of Kin Shop: “When [Harold Dieterle] debuted Perilla in 2007, it wasn’t a marquee assignment, but a small West Village bistro that gradually attracted a fervent following. Now, after a measured period of time, he’s opened a second place a few blocks distant, and it’s every bit as good.”

Sam Sifton awards two stars to Riverpark: “The menu is captivating, and the service amiable, professional and quick. … Certainly you can eat well. (Drink, too: The bar serves a wicked take on the Manhattan, with rye wisped through with single-malt Lagavulin, a smoky delight.)”
[NY Times]

Sifton also files on Mary Queen of Scots: “The food is mostly capably prepared, simply French fare with a Scottish burr, less ambitious and satisfying than the fare at Highlands.”
[NY Times]

Ryan Sutton doesn’t hate everything at Lincoln: “[Chef Jonathan] Benno is best when he veers from the predictable. Does any other cook plunge cod in a nutty prosciutto broth? I doubt it. Does anyone else cut razor clams to the same length as cavatelli? You don’t know which white batons are dough or mollusk until they’re in your mouth.”

Jay Cheshes finds hits and misses at Kin Shop: “[W]hile there are certainly standouts among the chef’s auteur creations, the traditional fare often seems extraneous.”

Steve Cuozzo has hope for Atlantic Grill at Lincoln Center: “Ocean Grill veteran Juan Carlos Ortega arrived to rescue the kitchen. The rear room got tablecloths. And while sushi seems ordinary, cooked seafood acquits itself in fine modern-American style.”
[NY Post]

The Underground Gourmet is rather taken with Fonda Nolita, where Tortilleria Nixtamal tortillas are filled with combinations of “slow-cooked meat, deftly seasoned sauces, and crunchy, fragrant toppings.”
[NY Magazine]

Gael Greene raves over Ciano: “I’m exhilarated by the discovery of this lush, exuberant food — Shea Gallante cooking Italian with so much bravura. I can’t wait to return.”
[Insatiable Critic]