After several delays, the long-awaited wine bar by natural wine purveyors Thirst Wine Merchants has finally arrived. Thirstbaràvin (a take on the French term for wine bar, bar à vin) opened at 629 Classon Avenue in Brooklyn last week.
The space, located on the outer fringes of Prospect Heights, is large and bright, and sparsely decorated. It has something of a cafeteria feel to it, reinforced by the exposed kitchen visible in the industrial space next door. Wine and food are scrawled casually on a blackboard over the bar, belying the care that has gone into designing the menu. (The chef is Ginevra Iverson, formerly of the cultish Prune.)
This past Saturday, the bar was already doing a steady trickle of business, turning out a handful of dishes and a healthy selection of wines by the glass priced from $8 to $12, including a fragrant, fruity Côtes du Rhone by the cultish producer Domaine Gramenon and bright, flinty fines bulles, the designation that refers to bubbly made in the Loire Valley. Fluffy, moist gougères made for a prefect bar snack.
Apparently, slow wines — the kind made with as little manipulation as possible — aren’t the only potable Thirstbaràvin specializes in. The bar is also equipped with a Mirage espresso machine by Kees van der Westen. And it’s the only place in the city serving B.C.’s 49th Parallel coffee outside of El Beit in Williamsburg, qualifying it as a serious coffee bar, too.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on December 13, 2010