The turmeric-laced tripe stew at Lima Limon.
Peruvian newcomer Lima Limon offers the usual range of variety meats seen in Peruvian restaurants. There are anticuchos, flame-grilled kebabs of veal heart, served with potatoes, a choclo of corn with outsize kernels, and a fiery red cilantro hot sauce. But even better is cau cau.
Cau cau is the way Peruvians prepare cow stomach tripe. Though turmeric is often regarded as little more than a coloring agent, here the spice shines as an earthy flavor unto itself. The tripe is stewed with small cubes of potatoes, and cilantro creates an altogether different flavor vector. If you normally are a little queasy about eating tripe, you won’t be when you taste this wonderful stew, which is served with rice and an opaque green sauce that is only one among many heat options at Lima Limon.
94-20 Roosevelt Avenue
Jackson Heights, Queens
The interior of Lima Limon may be too brightly lit for some.
You may enjoy shopping for some Colombian fetish clothes just down the street, after dining at Lima Limon.
This article from the Village Voice Archive was posted on December 14, 2010