Robert Sietsema on the New York-Montreal Food Connection; Lauren Shockey at Jeffrey’s Grocery


This week in the Voice, Robert Sietsema explores the relationship between New York and Montreal food, while Lauren Shockey finds hits and misses at Jeffrey’s Grocery.

Sam Sifton awards two stars to Harold Dieterle’s Kin Shop, even though it’s not quite authentic Thai: “[It’s] an American restaurant that serves food prepared using Thai flavors, a restaurant that nods at Thailand respectfully and uses its cuisine to fine effect.”
[NY Times]

Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite award a whopping four stars to Hung Ry: “serving righteous Lanzhou-style hand-pulled noodles that are as good as any within slinging distance of Confucius Plaza — maybe even better.”
[NY Magazine]

Steve Cuozzo approves of Osteria Morini: “Behind the crush that can leave you bruised, there’s a damn good, fat- and butter-friendly Italian restaurant helmed by protean chef Michael White.”
[NY Post]

Jay Cheshes likes the food, but not the room at Bar Basque: “[T]he menu, a genuine homage to the Basque Country devoid of pretense or gimmick, is simply too soulful for such austere surroundings. [Jeffrey] Chodorow, once again just missing the mark, has built a party restaurant uncomfortably saddled with serious food.”

Gael Greene is taken by the food, but not the service or cramped space, at Donatella, and can’t abide the noise at Mia Dona.
[Insatiable Critic]

Ryan Sutton rounded up his best restaurants of 2010, with Torrisi Italian Specialties, Ma Peche, and the Breslin making the top three.